BEGONIA

BEGONIA

Name: Begonia was first introduced in Santo Domingo in 1690, botanist Charles Plyumero. Description of her did Linnaeus and named in honor of the old governor Michel begonias.

Description: The genus includes over 400 species, native to tropical and subtropical areas of America, Africa and Asia. Begonia - a perennial herb, often woody shrub with fleshy (succulent) or succulent stems and leaves. Stem erect or decumbent, herbaceous, fruity, with a strongly marked nodes. Number of internodes (10-12) corresponds to the number of leaves. The roots are well branched, individual species are formed tubers. Inflorescence - panicle complex with an ever growing lateral buds. In the axil of each leaf of the main stem, from the fifth and sixth, the inflorescence is formed, consisting of three - five male and female flowers. Apical (terminal) flower always male.

Begonia flowers are heterosexual, irregular (zygomorphic), with brightly colored perianth. Male flower consists of four rounded and elongated-oval petals and two sepals and two hulled, lightly colored bracts ovate. Female - four or five petals, calyx of three free sepals and two bracts. In tuberous begonia flowers are large (5-15 cm), the non-stop flowering - small (2-3 cm). Lower-celled ovary, pistil has three pairs of fused and helically twisted blades stigmas, the surface of which is covered with fine needle-like papillae. Fruit - a winged-celled capsule, cracks along the side seams. The seeds are very small, orange-yellow, with cells on the surface. Despite its small size, the mature seeds differentiated direct embryo without endosperm.

In ornamental horticulture generally use begonia always in bloom (V. semperflorens Link et Otto) and tuberous begonia (B. x tuberhybrida Voss). Recently, there are seeds of flower shops and more new varieties of begonias.

Landing: for planting is best to take the young weekly tubers 5-6 cm in diameter. They are round and the top slightly dented. Older tubers larger, flattened with foams outgrowths of old stems.

Before planting, remove them from the remains of the soil and carefully cut a lot of dried up roots. Young tubers are sometimes a little wrinkled, but they are quite suitable for planting. For decontamination and restoration of turgor they are immersed for one hour in a solution of acid potassium-manganese (0.05%) at room temperature.

Rearing generally begin in mid-March. They bloom in about 3 months. If a lot of tubers, they should be planted in boxes. The substrate is peat with the addition of chalk or hydrated lime at the rate of 50-70 g in a bucket of peat. Boxes filled with peat half, laid the tubers at a distance of 5-8 cm from each other and filled the gaps between them so that the tops above the surface, peat lightly compacted and moistened with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer. (1-1.5 g per 1 L). The first time the water or solution when watering should not fall on the center of the tuber. Boxes with tubers contain a bright spot in the 18-22'S. On sunny days place to shadow, which whiten glass in greenhouses. During the period of rearing spend 4.3 feed. First - 4-5 weeks after planting, the subsequent 2-3. It is advisable to alternate feeding with organic and mineral fertilizers. In early May, the boxes take out in warm greenhouses place to shadow and provide good ventilation. About three weeks before planting in the ground plants begin to harden. Planting in the ground, balcony boxes and containers hold until after the spring frosts.

Tuberous begonias are better developed at moderate temperatures and some humidity. Planted them at a distance of 20-25 cm, buried tubers 1.5-2 cm well to fertilization during flowering.

Cleaning: the first frosts are a signal to harvest the tubers in storage. Aerial parts are cut to 2-3 cm shears, digging shovel or a garden fork, without clearing the soil from the roots, tubers are placed in boxes and transferred to a warm ventilated area. About 2 weeks remove the remains of the shoots, which by this time are easily separated. The tubers are dried and stored in the basement at B-10 ° C and humidity of 80-85%. The intervals between tubers sleep peat and if necessary placed second layer of tubers.

Diseases and pests: the correct observance farming and growing conditions begonia weakly affected diseases and damaged by pests.

Reproduction: begonias are usually propagated by dividing the tubers, cuttings and seeds.

When dividing the young tubers first germinated. Sprouts them laid out in a warm room for moist peat. Once awake kidney tubers cut into 2-4 parts, sections powdered charcoal and sulfur. "Delenki" with slices of dried-grow as potatoes and whole, but start to do it in 2-3 weeks earlier, as several divisions inhibits plant growth.

When propagated by cuttings grow fallopian tubes begin in January at 20-22'S. About a month later cuttings break out and press lightly at the base. For summer flowering enough to leave on tuber with 2 germ. Damaged areas sprinkled powdered charcoal and sulfur. After a light drying cuttings planted in sand and peat land to a depth of 2-3 cm slices preferably charcoal powder with the addition of growth factors. Boxes with cuttings regularly moisturize shadow place and kept at a temperature of 20 "C. rooting usually occurs 20-30 days, after which the cuttings are planted in boxes with a mixture of leaf compost, peat and sand (2:1:1 or 3:2:1 ) at the distance of 8 cm from each other and put on a bright place. As the young begonias fed organic fertilizers. On permanent planted more often. Generally, they do not have time to form tubers suitable for winter storage, and cultivated as annuals. valuable varieties are grown in pots that the summer pinned to the ground. Plants in late August to make room and grow until November (the flowers are removed), and then cut off the stems and tubers in pots placed in winter storage.

The most effective method of propagation - the seed. Crops produced in late December - early January. Seedlings usually bloom in the beginning of the landing ground. The seeds are very small, 1 g to about 50,000, so they sow not closing up, in shallow bowls or boxes with a mixture of sifted leaf soil, peat and sand (2:1:1) if peat sour, add hydrated lime (50 - 100 g of a mixture in a bucket.) Ultrafine begonia seeds germinate well if the substrate is to pour it on the snow and scatter the seeds. When it melts it will pull a little seed in the substrate, and will be what we need. To disinfect the substrate moistened with a solution of manganese-acid potassium (0.1%). Crops under glass and contain up to the first pick, evenly moistened warm water (about 30'S) from the pallet. Seedlings appear in 12-14 days. Raise the first glass, and a few days removed completely. Diving under 2-3 real leaves. A month later, a second pick. Two weeks after the second pick, mullein begin to feed every 7-10 days with the addition of potassium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of infusion). In late April - early May, diving at 7-11 cm pots on the same instance. Begonias at any age safely tolerate transplant, but it is necessary to protect them very brittle leaves. Further care is the same as for plants grown from tubers. The effect of sowing date on flowering and seed production of begonias ...

Tuberous begonias - short-day plants. Instances, retardation or received from late planting, it is advisable to plant a flower bed and a separate mid-July for 3-4 weeks completely obscure the opaque material from about 18 to 9:00. This increases the size of the tubers in about 1.5-2. It is recommended to do with plants propagated by cuttings. Promotes maturation of tubers and remove flowers.

Use: begonias are used in flower beds, perennial borders and as pot plants. The popularity of these plants due to abundant and colorful blooms during the frost-free period. Combine well with many low annual flowering and ornamental foliage plants.

CALCEOLARIA

CALCEOLARIA

Genus Calceolaria  sometimes classified as Scrophulariaceae by some authors and  comes from South America and covers according to different directories from 300 to 520 species. These flowers are 100-150 years ago were the favorite plants of Victorian England.

Calceolaria - herbaceous or shrub abundantly flowering plant that is grown in a culture room as annual or biennial. She conquers its peculiar shape bright two-lipped flowers, the upper lip is extremely small, barely noticeable, and the lower large, inflated, spherical. According to her similarity to the people they are called "shoes" or "purses". More common "booties" yellow and gold, but there are orange, red, brown or red. Often decorated with flowers, dots, spots, increasing the decorative effect. Simultaneously on a bush can flourish to 50 flowers. Blossoms usually in the spring and summer. But, thanks to the intervention of professionals flowering specimens can be purchased in stores and winter.

There are two groups of Calceolaria:

1) herbaceous biennials with large flowers of various colors;

2) shrubby perennials with smaller flowers.

Shrub Calceolaria good as potted plants to decorate balconies and room contents, use them well for growing beds. Herbaceous Calceolaria - beautiful flowering plants with larger flowers for the temporary detention room.

Widely cultivated as houseplants only hybrids Calceolaria, sometimes called hybrid Calceolaria. Saccate flowers of red, orange, yellow, pink and white with charming spots or specks. The height varies from 10 to 45 cm, depending on the species.

Plant Care

Location: indoors Calceolaria grow very difficult, it does not tolerate direct sunlight and heat. It should be kept in light or half-shaded and cool conditions at 14-16 ° C. At high temperatures (20-25 ° C) plant is aging rapidly and affected by pests. In the summer it is desirable to take half-shaded, sheltered from the cold winds of space on the balcony or in the garden. The plant must be protected from the elements. Calceolaria hibernates in a bright room at 8-12 ° C.

Watering during flowering Calceolaria watered regularly, avoiding stagnation of water. In winter, plants contain a moderate watering, not leading to coma drying ground is as much water is harmful to plants.

Humidity: In order to maintain the necessary humidity around the plant, the flower pot should be placed on a tray with gravel, half-filled with water. In no case don’t spray the leaves and flowers of the plant - leaves Calceolaria softly hairy and carry it away from water droplets.

Dressing: 1 Calceolaria fertilize every 10 days with a solution of mineral fertilizers. Feeding begins two weeks after planting in pots and continues to bloom.

Formation bushes: form bushes Calceolaria by neckerchief, i.e. removing the side shoots that grow from the axils of the leaves. During the period of intensive growth to budding plants are sometimes pinch, leaving 2-3 pairs of leaves, from the axils of which there are side shoots. As a result, plants are best bush, blooming profusely, but the diameter of the flower is smaller than neckerchief.

Care after flowering Calceolaria often grown as an annual plant, but you can save it for next year. After flowering it is cut and tied for 1.5-2 months in a cool dark place, occasionally wetting the earth com (do not put the complete drying of the soil). When it begins to grow new growth, it put on the lighted area, where it blooms. Flowering begins at 2 months earlier than in plants grown from seeds, and is weak. In this case, the plant significantly stretched, loose decorative inherent young specimens.

Reproduction: Calceolaria propagated by seed. For autumn flowering they are sown in March for the spring - in June. The seeds are very small and dusty. Sow them in a light sandy soil, not prisypaya ground. Zemlesmes to dive and planting includes deciduous and grassy land, peat and sand (2:1:1:1). Humidify the crops from a spray and cover with plastic wrap or glass. Pre-emergence soil kept wet in shading. Crops should be aired frequently to prevent mold growth. If the inside of the glass or film formed dew shelter must turn, not allowing moisture to plants.

Seedlings appear quickly, in about 2 weeks. Young seedlings twice diving in boxes - in two weeks and six weeks of age. Formed seedlings are transplanted into individual pots and put on a bright place. The optimum temperature for germination 20 ° C, and after transplant 14-16 ° C. Bloom calceolaria 8-10 months after planting.

Calceolaria shrub propagated by cuttings and more. After a short crop of old plants form a mass of suckers, which are on the cuttings. Produce cuttings in August or February-March. For strong bushy potted plant in a pot for a few cuttings, which root in 3-4 weeks.

Pests: calceolaria frequently damaged by aphids and whiteflies, the leaves turn yellow, deformed, the plant withers and dies quickly. Lower the temperature in the room, well-ventilated area. To combat the leaf aphids and whiteflies apply fumigation with tobacco smoke. To prevent good use of insecticide-candles.

CINERARIA

CINERARIA

Popular potted hybrid cineraria (Cineraria hybrid) belongs to the aster family (Asteraceae), or Asteraceae (Compositae).

Source types are the origin of the Canary Islands. Pure varieties in production greenhouses to grow practically impossible, as the plants are easily crossed.

Cineraria grow well in low term greenhouses, blooming in 7-9 months after planting. The plant has small yellow blossoms, pink, blue, purple flowers. Withered instances are of particular importance to gardeners.

For crops and the pick is a mixture of leaf and compost soil (1:1) or peat and sand (1:1). Further cultivation in pots and ridges is on the ground, consisting of turf, leaf and compost soil (2:1:2) or turf and sphagnum peat (1:2).

When culture on peat at 1 m were added 2.5 kg of fertilizer "B" or the following components: i: potassium nitrate - 1700, ordinary superphosphate - 1030; sulphate - magnesium - 300, iron - 5 Manganese - 3, zinc - 0 , 5, of copper - 0.5 boric acid - 5. In all cases, the pH of 6.0-6.5.

In 1 g contains 3.4 thousand seeds. Of this number, you can get about two thousand plants, suitable for implementation. Germination is stored for 3 years. Summer-autumn crop (July - September) bloom in March and April, the spring (March-April) - in November - January and the spring-summer (end of July) - In January-February. 2-3 weeks after germination spend pick in boxes of 60-70 pieces. Protect seedlings from direct sunlight.

After 6-7 weeks after picking, when the plants begin to touch, they are put in pots with a diameter 11 to 13 cm and pritenyayut until they take root. The plants are arranged on 14-16 pieces / m., And with the beginning of buds - 12-14 pcs / m.

During the summer, like boxes with seedlings and pots better contain greenhouse or under the film with open sidewalls. In realization are only full-blown copies cineraria.

Plant out seedlings watered regularly, occasionally sprayed water on a sunny day - 2 times a day. Established and having got to the growth cineraria sprayed less.

After planting in pots plants should be well watered. In the future (especially in the period of the temperature 6-8 ° C), moisten the soil moderately, avoiding, however, the drying.

On sunny days, cineraria quickly fade, but watered easily restore juicy stems. Much more dangerous than a surplus of moisture: the leaves wither and the plants die.

Cineraria seeds germinate at 16-18 ° C. Then, the temperature was lowered to 14 ° C. Planted in pots of plants at first kept at 10-12 ° C, and when they start - at 6-8 ° C. It is very important to maintain a low temperature in November - January. Since the beginning of the formation of buds cineraria requires more heat - about 12-14 ° C.

Culture can in bright rooms, but does not like direct sunlight. It is best grown in the northern part of the greenhouse. Seedlings watered with 0.1% solution of crystalline.

Cineraria, transplanted into pots and began to develop, every 10-15 days, fed a 0.2% solution of the same fertilizer. Since the beginning of flowering extra food stop.

Artificially pollinated cineraria readily form seeds. To do this, pick a compact, well-developed, healthy specimens with horizontal baskets.

On a sunny day at about 10:00 am, with a soft brush the pollen is transferred from one flower to another of the same plants. The procedure is repeated two times a week, unless there seeds. They have a fluffy flying detachment and easily fall off, so it is important to harvest time. Treated seeds are stored in a cool, dry, dark place.

Many growers in growing cineraria may encounter the following problems:

1. The plant has the lower leaves wilt. Hence, the substrate is too dry or wet. In the first case, you have to water profusely or while immersed in water pots. Wetting the soil when the plant can not be saved.

2. Bushes stretched, weak, poor quality. Most likely, the reason for this is that the pots are too closely. Place them so that the plants are not touching.

3. The leaves are wrinkled, curled edge down, buds bloom poorly. Most likely landing struck aphids. In the greenhouse temperature is too high.

4. The leaves bright brown spots. This is the result of careless irrigation.

5. The underside of the leaves, stalks and buds are white soft coating, drying herbs, buds are deformed. Rather, it is powdery mildew.

6. In young plants on the upper side of leaves - pale greenish spots (then they turn brown) on the bottom - Downy mildew; plate quickly shrivel and fall off.

Disease - mildew. Necessary to strengthen ventilation of greenhouses, to add to potash. It is important not to overfeed the plant with nitrogen.

7. In seedlings and adult specimens in the stems and stalks of red-brown spots with ashen middle. This blight. You should remove the diseased plants.

8. Dry leaves, buds do not bloom or bloom late. On young shoots from the bottom of the plates and inflorescences can be seen wingless and winged insects. There was potato aphid.

9. The leaves and buds of gnawing. In the greenhouse, outside cabbage moth flies. Insert the window frame with a mesh or gauze. Destroy weeds around the greenhouse.

10. In the pulp leaves gnawed white winding paths. The reason for this - meat omnivorous fly. Need to break the leaves until they still have caterpillars and larvae of the pest.

Correct and in compliance with all the rules of farming, you will achieve remarkable success in raising and breeding of cineraria, which will delight you with flowers all summer long, giving you an unforgettable experience and memories.

CLIVIA

CLIVIA

Finest decoration-flowering plant Clivia is distinguished by its simple beauty. This flower is nothing extra. It is beautiful in any season, whether flowering or rest. Especially pleased that in the winter months, Clive blooming, transforms itself and transforms all the surrounding space abundant rich beauty of multiple large and very bright flower clusters. The impression is that Clivia envoy from a country where there is always a spring and orange-yellow mood! These gorgeous flowers Clivia has a long juicy stem, densely covered the surface of the earth, its elongated, slightly curving leaves that grow directly from the rhizome. Each year, on the same plant produces 15-20 of inflorescences. On the other hand, is a Clivia flower care which is reduced to the simplest minimum rules - not re wet plant that does not cover the sun for a long time and give the plant a rest period. Clivia - indoor plant has the rare beauty of living and good endurance. Recommend it to you to compulsory cultivation at home.

Clivia Care

Optimal Storage: keep in a period of rest as possible moderate temperature - 14-15 0C, in a period of growth 20-22 0C. Lighting: between peace Cleve set aside in place of shade, in a period of growth and flowering provide good ambient lighting. Humidity: spray is optional. Watering:  Do not re wet soil as This is certainly cause root rot, moderate watering, small drying of the soil is acceptable. Fertilizer: 2 times a month, add to the water complex fertilizers for flowers. The soil: to root Clive suitable light soil - a mixture of turf and leaf soil and sand in equal amounts. Life expectancy: perennial. The complexity of development: easy to learn plant.

Clivia bloom

Flowering period Clive is in the middle-end of winter. Must precede the flowering of two-month period of rest. Clivia usually not flower because of its wrong organization. In early autumn, the plant set aside in the shade spot, stop fertilizing and watering Moderate. At the expiration of 8-12 weeks of resuming normal care and well lit, and temperature.

Clivia transplant

Try not to turn over Cleve, and if they do it, but only in extreme cases and with special care. The root system of Clive very fragile and unstable to decay in the damaged areas. Quite simply, the error for the transplant may kill the plant. For more information about the transplant can be found in replanting.

Clivia reproduction and growth

Clivia seeds - the best and safest way to its reproduction. Get seeds in two ways - in the shops, or to pollinate the already existing plant during its flowering. Germination of seeds need light soil and oblong box, in which planting the seeds (not too often, about every 6-8 cm) of watered abundantly, and the box is placed in a bag or a plastic film. After the emergence of young Clive neatly seated on a pot with good drainage and light soil mix, from then normal care. More information on the reproduction section of plant propagation (sexual reproduction of plants> seed propagation).

Clivia illness and problematic points

Due to waterlogging rhizome rot can cleave, please be careful watering, if water collects in the pan pot, be sure to immediately drain it. Clive pests - spider mite and beetle. The methods of treatment plants described in the sections: plant pests and plant diseases.

Extraordinary Clivia Photo

Clivia species

Clivia Vermilion clivia miniata - the main species grown in the home. Comes from South Africa. At the height of up to 45 cm, the leaves usually grow no longer than half a meter.

Clivia is not complicated enough to care for the plant and, with proper winter, blooms twice as much per year. To do this, in the autumn watering gradually to a condition which does not only allow the leaves wilt. The plant puts on a winter vacation in a cold room with a temperature of 12 degrees 7, where it should be a light (but not direct sunlight) and spacious. Clivia only thing that does not like, so it is - any concern: Do not move the pot during the tying buds and during flowering, do not repot the plant until the roots begin to come out of the pot (and then, only after flowering).

During the winter holiday does not cleave to feed and keep watering to a minimum. If at this time the leaves begin to dry, it is quite normal, let them wither quietly, but do not increase watering. Once the stems reach a height of 10-15 cm, and gradually increase watering during flowering, and later in the spring and summer, water the plants died, as the drying of the soil. Since the opening of flowers begin to feed Clive complete mineral fertilizer every 21 days. In the fertilizer should not be a lot of nitrogen, and when fertilizing with organic fertilizers, they throw a lot of water - excess nitrogen in the dressing inhibits second blossoming, stimulating the growth of the leaves.

Spring - summer Clive contain in diffuse light, very suitable balconies and windows of the northern and western areas and shady corner of the garden, periodically spray the leaves with water, the plant watered and fed. The plant should not be hot, the optimum temperature 18 degrees.

To re-summer flowering, in the event that she does not want Clivia bloom, it must be stimulated. Two flowering year can handle only large mature plant. Pot with a plant in late July to make a dusky room with a balcony or garden. Watering a little cut and at this time the plant was not fed. After a week or two lower leaves may begin to turn yellow, but you should see the stems.

If you do not have to comply with all the complexity of care, then do not. Clivia easy on the windows of any orientation, at any temperature, adapts to any watering, except frank Bay, and will delight you with blooms, even once a year, but in the most unpredictable season. Clivia - one of the most durable houseplants. When transplanting Clive better to take soil mixture of 8 parts sod land, 4 pieces of leaf and 1 part sand.

Rusty spots on the leaves can be a sign of improper watering or burn direct sunlight. In the first case - the water the plant only after the top layer of soil is dry, having stood in the room (not near the battery) with water from time to time wipe the leaves with a damp soft cloth and spray from a spray the underside of leaves of cold boiled water. In the second case - move the plant to the west, east or north window. And if this is not possible, the window in the house is only one, and only the southern, move the plant into the room. If the spots on the leaves look like narrow strips of rusted, then this is a sign of disease. You can lubricate the spot copper oxychloride, 3-4 g per liter of water once a week. The spots will not disappear, but must stop to grow in size and new spots should no longer appear. But we hope that your plant is suffering only because of errors care.

CYCLAMEN

CYCLAMEN

Cyclamen - a perennial plant that forms corms almost spherical shape, hence the name of the flower ("tsiklos" means "cycle"). Another name for the plant "dry aqua." Cyclamen also called "swine bread" because wild boar has long loved to feast on his club.

Green leaves of Cyclamen are on long stalks and have a decorative silver gray pattern. The flowers can be white, pink, purple hues, the petals of some hybrids are terry. Within 8-9 months, the cyclamen rests, finished flowering and dropping leaves. Flowering cyclamen is long and plentiful; depending on the type of plant and the conditions it may start in October and continue until the end of March.

Cyclamen room: how to select cyclamen

About to make a purchase, pay attention not only to the state of the foliage, but the tuber, which should be free of rot. Cyclamen is best to buy in the autumn, when the bloom is just beginning, well, if this plant will have a lot of buds.

Cyclamen: care, how to care for cyclamen

If you take good care of cyclamen, this houseplant will delight you for 20 years of its lush flowering. When planting tuber not bury in the ground, remember that its upper third should be above ground. Another important feature of the care of the flower - is growing cyclamen in a small pot to bloom was magnificent, but not tuber rots.

Growing cyclamen. Care during flowering cyclamen

During flowering cyclamen should provide cool air, the ideal temperature at this time is 12-15 degrees Celsius. Make sure that the temperature was above 20 degrees and did not fall below 10 degrees Celsius. Blooming cyclamen need a lot of light, but not direct sunlight, otherwise the plant will quickly wither, the flowering period can be reduced or ended.

This indoor plant needs regular watering. Watering is better in pallet or by immersion for several minutes. Take care that on tuber sprouts and no water. Eliminate the soil moisture, which can be detrimental to the tuber, and therefore for the flower as a whole.

You can spray the air around cyclamen, but in any case, do not direct the flow of drops of water directly to the plant (leaves, flowers, and tubers).

Indoor cyclamen. Care after flowering cyclamen

Usually in the spring for cyclamen begins a rest period. This means that flowering ceases, the leaves wither. Watering the plants in this period significantly reduced. If the leaves are fallen themselves, then they should be removed by twisting or using scissors, cutting as close to the club, but very carefully so as not to damage it by accident.

Recommended pot cyclamen move to a cooler shade and prevent drying out of the soil. Remember, cyclamen likes warm and dry air. Cyclamen can be taken into the fresh air in the shade.

When the plant leaves appear first, it means that the plant woke up and came out of dormancy.

Cyclamen tubers: Cyclamen transplant

Cyclamen transplant performed at the end of the rest period and the beginning of budding. During transplanting plants should replace earth com, remove dead and rotten roots cyclamen. After the transplant, the flower put on a bright place, protected from direct sunlight. Watering in the first two weeks after transplant should be moderate. And in two weeks you can start feeding cyclamen.

Cyclamen: reproduction, cyclamen seeds

Cyclamen are propagated by dividing the tubers or seeds. Seeds of Persian, European and Neapolitan cyclamen should be sown in late summer, the temperature of the air was in the range of 15-20 degrees Celsius. In 15-18 months starts flowering period of most varieties of Persian cyclamen. The period of sowing seeds kosskogo cyclamen have for the winter, in January and February. European cyclamen well propagated by dividing the tubers in February. It is believed that cyclamen grown from seed will be more adaptable to indoor conditions than those grown in the greenhouses of the Netherlands.

Cyclamen: care for the plant, the basic requirements

Temperature: The ideal temperature for cyclamen - about 12-15 degrees, the temperature should not be below 10 degrees or above 20 degrees.

Light: bright place, protected from direct sunlight.

Watering cyclamen: During the growing season and flowering cyclamen regularly needs watering.

 If watering from the top, you need to make sure that no water enters in the tuber; this water is poured over the edge of the pot.

Humidity: Cyclamen likes moist air, so the air around the flower mono wet with spray, but ensure that moisture does not go directly to the plant. You can also put a flower pot on a tray of wet pebbles.

Care after flowering Persian cyclamen: After flowering cut to the tuber, reducing watering and fertilizing finishing plant. If there is a yellowed leaves, they are twisting with petioles, not cut. The remaining leaves in the spring pod so nut and the plant will go into a state of rest, then watering should be stopped. Pot should be put to the side and put in a cool place. To mid-summer flowers are not watered.

Around the middle of the summer pot put in place shadow outdoors. Periodically the earth begins to moisten. When the first leaves, the plants are ready for transplanting.

Care after flowering cyclamen other species: For the rest of cyclamen (all but the Persian), longer enough to unscrew the leaves and stop fertilizing.

Transplant Cyclamen: Cyclamen transplant is performed with a complete replacement of the old land. The soil to the Persian cyclamen: sheet, humus, sod land and sand, taken in equal parts. During the transplant removed rotten roots. Diameter pot ideal for cyclamen 12-14 cm If the pot is too small, the cyclamen bloom too early and flowering will be weak and short-lived. The large diameter of the pot is also undesirable.

For other species of cyclamen (all but Persian) should add ash or dolomite flour to reduce soil acidity. The ground for the Neapolitan and European cyclamen should be nutritious for kosskogo - poor.